Day 23 – Larimore

Day 23 – Larimore, North Dakota (Sunday, May 24, 2015)

I think Coriolis stopped working. The weather men all say that it’s a high pressure system and shrug. Ya right! There are only two possibilities for an east wind three weeks straight:

(a) Someone did something to Mr. Coriolis
Or
(b) the world stopped spinning which doesn’t happen often.

Well the sun came up this morning thus my conclusion.

I got up reluctantly at 6:30am this morning, shook the due off my tent, packed up, and found a spot at a table at the corner store to eat my muffins. I didn’t feel much like eating, so I left some of the sugary cinnamon buns, and got going.‎

I had a late “second” breakfast at McDonald’s squeaking in just before they started serving lunch. I had two pancake meal thingys, an orange juice (more sugar) and a coffee. I had trouble eating it all but downed most of it.

For the record… I stopped in at Lakota for a beverage break and chatted with Ann before taking off to Niagara, my intended destination.

I arrived at Niagara and found a quaint little hamlet that was generally well maintained. I called a bed and breakfast and was told that they don’t open until June. The man, who was pleasant enough added “this is North Dakota.” like it was an irrefutable natural law. (It is as clearly understood as the one that prohibits voting for a black president although nothing is ever written. Someone should tell them that even the written natural laws are being revoked.)‎

While I was standing there with my bike wondering what to do a kindly old patriarch and his family drove by in a brand new four door pickup truck and asked me with a baritone voice if he could help. (He sounded like he could be a preacher.) I told him all I needed was somewhere to setup my tent. He generously offered – anywhere – I am not sure if he owned the town. And then I added “a public washroom would be nice.”. At that point he reneged on his offer and directed me the Larimore. “It’s just 10miles down the road. They have a rest area there.” Like he walked there everyday! I should be careful not to scoff. Perhaps he did. It’s still prairie farming country.

What was I to do?

So here I am at the rest stop on highway #2 at the exit for Larimore. I’ve set my tent and will be eating my camping meal. Although it’s not the most private place it’s pretty nice and so far it’s free. I am pretty sure it wasn’t intended for tenting. Who’s going to tell me to leave?

Camping at the rest stop at Larimore. There was nowhere else. 8:13 pm 2015/05/24

9:04 am 2015/05/24

9:23 am 2015/05/24

5:47 pm 2015/05/24

Day 21 – Minot

Day 21 – Minot, DK (Friday May 22, 2015)

Three weeks on the road!

I left Bowbells about 8am and arrived in Kenmare at 10:30am to have my breakfast staple; two orders of french toast and hash browns.

My direction was mostly south and again I ended up facing a strong head wind. I was disappointed with my progress.

I aimed to have lunch in Minot but I didn’t arrive in Minot until 2:30pm. By then I was desperate for something to eat and ended up at a Burger King while I got my bearings. I needed something at the bike shop and dropped in at Val’s Cycles to pick up a new chain.

I’m disappointed I will be staying in a hotel. Ann told me to ask around for a place to pitch a tent. I think there is quite a low likelihood of finding a campground in the middle of an urban area but I guess it’s worth a try. She also scolded me for being such a whimp and not going 24 km further. She was right on both counts. I need a firm itinerary now I’ve left my original intended course.

House in North Dakota 10:56 am 2015/05/22

9:55 am 2015/05/22

House in North Dakota. 10:10 am 2015/05/22

BikeTracking, BikeRoute

Day 20 – Bowbells

Day 20 – Bowbells, ND (Thursday May 21, 2015)

I took down my tent, packed up and was on my bike by 7:15am. I stopped down at “Sista’s” restaurant for french toast and discovered that the service hadn’t got any better overnight.

I had a second breakfast in Estevan in good time at 10:30am. Although there were “local” choices I picked Dairy Queen. I wanted to count on quickness, cleanliness and a smile.

I crossed the border into North Dakota at North Portal SK at about 1:30pm. The border guards were good guys and were curious about a crazy old man riding across the country on his bicycle. They asked what I had in my panniers and I made the mistake to list my food items. Apparently my rice was not allowed into the US and was confiscated. Who would have thought? My wife Ann packed that rice. It was healthy nutritious brown rice. Don’t tell Ann but I didn’t like that rice. It made eating my camping meal a chore and I am glad it is gone. Now I can go and buy some white rice with impunity.

It may be important to note that the stretch of east bound highway on number 5 doesn’t have much of a shoulder. Typically the shoulder would be described thus from right to left: there’s a white line, then about 12 inches of a rumbles strips, then a strip of about 4-10 inches of good pavement intended for bicyclists like me, then about 4 feet of gravel. The strip of good pavement for bicyclists varied in width depending on the whim of the highway builders. On highway 5 to boot here is one lane of traffic in each direction with a speed limit of 65 miles per hour.

There a number of things I learnt when riding on a narrow strip of pavement:

You get better at riding in a straight line.
Your grip gets stronger.
Rumble strips act like brakes. (So does gravel)
Livestock trucks push the most wind.

I gave up travelling on this thin strip of due to difficulty and decided instead to use the road when there was no traffic. I started thinking that avoiding Ontario’s highways north of Lake Superior by traveling in the US was a dumb idea.

Luckily the traffic was sparse, the drivers gave me the next lane (when they could) and the highway improved significantly to 9 feet of paved shoulder once the highway headed south to Bowbells.

There are no campground in Bowbells. I am staying at an acceptable motel with a shower, laundry and a bed. Isn’t quite as good as the tent but it will have to do.

An iconic prairie house. 3:23 pm 2015/05/21

Benson and a ubiquitous ‎prairie grain elevator. 8:57 am 2015/05/21

Benson and some old farm buildings. 8:58 am 2015/05/21

Someone running a junk yard looking for amusement. 9:53 am 2015/05/21

BikeTracking, BikeRoute

Day 19 – Stoughton

Day 19 – Stoughton, SK (Wednesday, May 20, 2015)

Although I didn’t see downtown Regina it seemed from the ourskirts that Regina was a busy town like any other busy town. Perhaps it was trying to be like some other city in Ontario.

I stayed at Days Inn. It was like any other Days Inn with a pool, cookies and a hot breakfast. But I really miss sleeping in a tent.

I took advantage of the “hot” breakfast which made me later than usual and set my new course south of Superior.

I had a good day bicycling, again not a cloud in the sky and the wind was finally in my favour. I hit 38km/hr in the flat but other than that the day was generally unmemorable.

I can guess why people from the prairies are so serious. There is nothing funny about living here. The winter is brutal, the spring is filled with bugs, the land and the sky are all you see without variation, and up until recently everyone was dependent on the rain for their livelihood.

The new route – highway 33 – runs right beside the railroad tracks. The grain elevators were built at regular intervals about 20km apart. One of the guys I met in Stoughton said there has been a lot on consolidation but they are still the most distinguishing land feature.

And then there are oil wells. Lots of them. They are marked by machinery moving slowly up and down resembling a nod of some prehistoric animal.

It seems like much of Saskatchewan is in some sort of disrepair. Despite this people are still eking out a living. Beats me how! This may be the slow route to prosperity. Or maybe not.

When I arrived in Stoughton I found a nice campground and left to look for a place to eat. Someone pointed out a corner where there was a restaurant. It’s called “Sista’s” they said. “The have pretty good food there.” So I went to the corner where there was a typical prairie building with aluminum siding and minimal windows. There was no restaurant sign. There was no “Sista’s” sign. They were (or I was) lucky I was on my bike or I would have kept going. The food was ok but no-one really knew how to wait on tables. The waiters were nice enough but were much more interested in chatting with the locals. Somehow this seems typical.

I pitched my tent which was still wet from the snow at Eagle Valley. I looked forward to finally sleep in the fresh air again.

An old building in a small hamlet on the way to Stoughton. 2:02 pm 2015/05/20

BikeTracking, BikeRoute

Day 12 – Cluny

Day 12 – Cluny, AB (May 13, 2014)

I packed up at the hostel in Calgary and was on the road a little before 7am. Apparently the hostel served breakfast at 7:30am as part of the cost of the room. It would have been nice to take advantage but I find the continental type breakfast insufficient (waiting 40 minutes translates to too long) and I wanted to get started.

Eventually I had my breakfast at a retro Harley Davidson place and ordered the breakfast staple, “Pain dore”. Katie would appreciate it.

After breakfast I weaved my way through the bicycle trails that followed along a dyke of one of the canals.

When I left Calgary the wind started to pick up from the East by South East I as predicted. I knew that if the wind continued I was going to have a hard time making Bassano.

As the hours wore on working against the 20 km head wind a number of things occurred to me.

There is this ‘stinking’ effect somebody came up with. I think it was Beroulli or some other sick person. Basically it says that the air travels faster over a hill. I’d like to tear that out of the text books.
Truck drivers are too nice in Alberta. Imagine this: I get this huge shoulder lane all to myself on the transcanada. Along comes a truck pushing air and the drivers, thinking they are doing me a favour, pull over the passing lane increasing the distance between the truck and me to about 30 feet.

As the day wore on making it to Bassano became a bigger and bigger obstacle. At the first sign of a gas station I stopped and bought some chocolate bars and beef jerkey – no real food.

In Cluny, about 50km from Bassano, at about 4pm, I decided to call it a day.

The was a gas station at the corner at the trancanada. A restaurant was advertised but the restaurant area was cordoned off. It looked like it had been that way for years. The lady at the counter explained there was place to eat at Pete’s Cafe in Cluny “just down the hill”. That worried me since hills in the prairies are up to 5km long but I took the risk.

The population of Cluny was around one hundred. Pete’s Cafe and Bakery was in the center of the town. I was served by a friendly girl in her 30s who scurried about with a low center of gravity. Another lady came by explaining I could camp down the road and wouldn’t be charged. She was a kind magnanimous person who seemed to run things. She could well have been Cluny’s mayor (or should have been.)

After chatting with some local guys about bikes I settled in for the night in an open field by a baseball diamond (the town camp site.)

My bike pointed east with a flag pointing straight out toward the west. 10:39 am 2015/05/13

Pete’s Cafe and Bakery in Cluny. 7:51 am 2015/05/14

BikeTracking, BikeRoute

Day 1 – Sun Valley

Day 1 – Sun Valley Trout Park, Mission, BC (May 2, 2015)

I arrived in Vancouver this morning with my bike.

IMG_20150502_093129 — My boxes at YVR (Vancouver International Airport) 7:30 am 2015/05/02.

It took a few hours to put the bike back together.

I forgot what it felt like riding fully loaded. I had to find a parking lot at the airport to practice before I felt confident.

I had trouble finding my way in Vancouver because my first track started from Stanley Park (dumb). Stanley Park is 10 km north of the airport and it was pretty hard to work my way to the track without clear directions. When I finally reached the track I started going the wrong way. Luckily I happened to stop for lunch and took stock of where I was. That is when Michelle called and as I answered, the BlackBerry went dead.

Once I was on track (at about 2 pm) it was pretty straightforward. There were a few turns that slowed me down but I arrive at Sunvalley Trout Farm just about 6pm. It’s not a bad little private camping spot. I even saw fish jump.

The tent up at Sunvalley. — The tent up at Sunvalley 7:30 pm 2015/05/02.

Sunvalley Trout Farm. View of the small lake 7:30pm. — Sunvalley Trout Farm. View of the small lake 7:30 pm 2015/05/02.